Italy has a big industry called "agrituristica." Essentially, that is a bed and breakfast located on a farm or other agricultural endeavor. This is the one where we stayed, just outside of Monteleone di Spoleto.
Colle del Capitano is a true working farm, owned by the Vannozzi family. It has been in their possession for over 100 years, and probably much longer. The eggs on the counter came from their geese, and our hostess gladly made us omelets from them. One egg was sufficient to feed the both of us. She even asked if we wanted her to put some truffles in it! Well.... OK....
It was great!
On February 8, 1902, Isidoro Vannozzi (the ancestor of our hosts) stumbled upon an Etruscan tomb, right at the site of the current buildings. Legend has it that he was building a wine cellar. The prize artifact was an intact chariot, or Biga. This is a photo of the copy that is in a dedicated museum below the chiesa S. Francesco. The original is in the Metropolitan Museum. The town is trying to secure the return of the biga, but it has not had much success to date.
I knew that the Valnerina was truffle country, but I didn't realize that this was true in the Monteleone environs. However, I came across this sign while taking a hike around the property. I later saw a man out among the trees, surrounded by dogs, poking the ground with a stick. It turned out to be our host gathering truffles. They ended up on our pasta that evening!
Our room wasn't fancy, but it was large, comfortable and had a kitchen. The view was not spectacular, but pastoral and calm. The grove in the distance is where signor Vannozzi showed me the truffles. After the hustle and bustle of our tour, our week in the peaceful and quiet Colle del Capitano was absolute heaven.
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